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NM: There's no such thing as free-range baking soda! Somebody recently said to me, "I hate this Modernist stuff, why don't you make something that's simple and natural-like pasta with cheese and sauce? It doesn't grow on a pasta tree, you know. It doesn't look much at all like grain. In fact there's this elaborate, well-figured-out procedure you have to go through to make pasta.
Now pasta is a wonderful food-I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it-but calling it natural is just weird. Pasta was an invention. Virtually all foods you find at a farmer's market or local butcher have had their genomes modified extensively through decades or centuries of selective breeding.
What people called "genetically modified" these days means that some techniques from molecular biology have been used to alter them in very specific ways. But nearly all these genetic modifications have been aimed at addressing the needs of industrial-scale agriculture.
Chefs are mainly interested in taste and flavor, and so far little if any GM work has focused on improving these attributes. So I think that, for maximum flavor, old heirloom varieties are generally still the best.
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But this is a practical position on my part, not an ideological position. Much of the world suffers from malnutrition, and GM crops adapted to, say, African agriculture might be able to avoid famine and save millions of lives. One ingredient that purists love to hate is monosodium glutamate MSG. MSG has been widely attacked, but I searched the medical literature and was amazed to find that in fact there is no scientific evidence that it is bad for you.
Lots of people claim to be intolerant of MSG, but in blinded trials, researchers have found, they can't consistently tell whether food contains MSG or not.
We cover this research in detail in our Food and Health chapter. As for using refined chemicals to cook, well, if you make muffins, you are going to use some baking powder. The baking powder is a refined chemical-it's mined, not grown!
You're probably going to use salt as well. Guess what?
Your salt is either mined, or it's evaporated out of the ocean. You can go on and on, but essentially there are a whole bunch of refined ingredients that everyone uses without thinking twice, simply because they have been around a long time.
Interestingly, few if any of those traditional refined ingredients have been scientifically tested to make sure they are safe to eat.
Decades of experience suggests that they are, but you're not likely to find careful studies that prove it. Modern refined ingredients, such as hydrocolloids, have been safety tested.
And guess what? Pretty much all of them are either extracted from seaweed or made by fermentation. If you're willing to eat nori and vinegar on your sushi rice, and chase it with a glass of wine, why should you object to this? I love the idea of farm-to-table advocates who say, "I'd rather have my sweet corn picked 10 minutes before we eat it and barely cooked! The trouble is that some people get too fixated on this ideal, and argue that it should be forbidden to thicken a sauce with agar, even while they have no problem putting baking powder in their muffins.
How do you feel about the terms "Modernist cuisine" versus "molecular gastronomy? Even if you set that aside, most of his research does focus on applying science to understanding traditional cooking.
Nearly all the chefs I have talked to in the field hate the name molecular gastronomy. And from a scientific standpoint, the term is meaningless: all food is made of molecules. I think that "Modernist cuisine" is a much better term because it describes the avant-garde approach of rebelling against culinary rules of the past. It is also broad enough to encompass a wide variety of styles.
This is a 2,page book. Is there anything in cooking that it does not cover? NM: As we worked on the book, we kept adding more and more to it.
We could have added more still, but then it never would have been done. In particular we did not cover pastry, desserts, and baked goods in Modernist Cuisine. Maybe we will do another book on those topics at some point. How did your 13 years as Chief Technology Officer of Microsoft compare to writing a cookbook?
NM: They are very different in some ways, but similar in others. At Microsoft, I learned how to manage big projects and how to get the best out of a team, which were both necessary for the cookbook.
A lot of experimenting was required for Modernist Cuisine. Did you make any surprising discoveries? NM: During the process of writing the book, we came up with explanations for many long-standing mysteries of cooking.
It turns out that a lot of what goes on in cooking involves counterintuitive science. We were pretty puzzled to discover, for example, that most vegetables actually cook faster in boiling water than they do in steam. In fact, we ran some experiments to collect data for a chart that would show the opposite, that steaming is faster. But that is not what the data showed. Do any of you guys masi there is not confident?
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